Odd Things

One of the odd things about Africa that I always forget about occurs the moment one arrives. The moment the plane lands, all the passengers burst into applause as if they had just witnessed a virtuoso performance or some unique event. I suppose upon deeper reflection, the take-off, flight, and touch down of a large hunk of metal is pretty amazing but it always seemed like a strange time for clapping.

African meetings are odd too. I was reading in the dining area when I overheard the guides and workers discussing the salary issue prior to our scheduled labor dispute meeting. I can't tell you exactly what was said because they were speaking Lingala, a language in which I know how to say "very good", "tomorrow", and "she is a devil woman." But there was a significant amount of shouting.

After a few moments I was summoned to meet with the group. I have been around here enough to know that the shouting didn't necessarily mean very much. Two men could be yelling at each other red-faced and breathless over the smallest discrepancies and the next minute laughing hysterically together. Shouting is just their way of expressing strong feelings. Besides, I had been "negotiating" with them through Valentin, an independent observer who told me not to worry. I knew they wouldn't be leaving without something, which was fine because I wanted to give them something for their time. What needed to be decided was the value of their work. So when I walked toward the meeting, I wasn't too nervous. Until I saw the chair.

There was a single, wooden chair placed in the opening between some huts and about 15 past and current workers sitting around on stumps and logs in a semi-circle. I felt as if I was on trial. Of course I shouldn't have been concerned. After an uncomfortably long silence where it seemed everyone had measured my dimensions (shrinking by the day I might mention), Valentin spoke in French and told me that they had accepted my offer ($15/day based on the entries they had kept in their logbook.) I was then asked to say a few words. I talked about the over 30-year history of researchers at the site. I spoke about how the project has two goals and to help the livelihood of the people who work with them. I explained that I had a limited budget for this trip and that I would pay them $450 now and reevaluate the budget right before we left with any extra funds being donated to the village school.

My French was translated (the women are usually not taught French although it seems to be changing.) Then I gave them the money. I said that we appreciated their work and that I hoped the U of O would have a long-lasting relationship with the people here. I finished by saying that I was personally grateful for the friendships I had made and the opportunity to live there.

At the end there were hugs, intricate handshakes and even applause. Maybe not with the same enthusiasm as when a plane touches down, but still.